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18 April 2018

5. KETTLETHORPE HALL & THE BOATHOUSE FOLLY (AKA A CHUNK OF CHANTRY CHAPEL)

The folly of leaving history unattended…

Kettlethorpe Hall is a Grade 1 listed building. Surprising then that there seems to be so little about it on the Internet, even when you delve as deep as page 5 of Google.

Here’s what I managed to find out besides its Grade 1 listing: it was built in 1727 for a rich local family. That’s it – and that was garnered from the same site that told me it was Grade 1 listed. So I can only assume that not much of interest has happened there. It’s in a strange, tucked away position, behind Kettlethorpe School, and most Wakefieldians are probably completely unaware of this minor stately home.

But I’ve not really come here to visit the hall, which looks to be an occupied private residence. I’ve come to see if there’s still any evidence of the boathouse folly that stood on the lake, the boathouse that just happened to have been the original western front of Chantry Chapel.

Remember our friend George Gilbert Scott from Post 3? He made the unfathomable decision to allow a chunk of Chantry Chapel – and the best bit at that – to be taken away to someone's stately home two miles away. He could have restored this medieval piece of church history to its former glory, but for whatever reason, didn’t.

I’ve just been checking up on Scott on Wikipedia and it turns out he was a really big cheese in architecture. He was made a Sir in 1872, around 25 years after he’d butchered Wakefield’s historic landmark, so it can’t have done his reputation that much harm.

To be fair to old George, he apparently reflected on this episode in his dotage with the ‘utmost shame and chagrin’ to use his words. In fact, he tried to whip up interest in getting the Chapel’s frontage returned to its original position, but his Crowdfunder page came to nought.

 
So the Chapel’s front remained a boathouse folly for a hundred and fifty years (from 1840-odd to the late 1990s). As such, it seems to have been something of an attraction, being well loved by Victorian artists and the subject of many early picture postcards. You can find all sorts of pictures of it on Google Images, many of them presumably stills of those postcards.

It doesn’t sound like it was particularly well-cared for by its new owners but it seems only to have been slowly deteriorating till that well-known group of malcontents known as the Vandals discovered it and started to administer their version of TLC. Such care included pushing many of the ancient carved stones into the lake.

You can just imagine the depressing scene. Kevin’s just given Sandra a bunk up against the boathouse walls as dusk descends on the balmy summer evening. ‘Eh, Sand,’ Kev says, between swigs of his Skol lager, ‘watch this.’ Sandra giggles as she pulls her knickers back up and watches Kev shove part of the boathouse wall into the water.

Kettlethorpe Hall had apparently lain empty for many years by the 1990s. Maybe the grounds had been separated from the hall years before that and therefore open to the public, as they are now. What is clear is that the boathouse/Chantry Chapel’s western front were going to be lost for ever like a forgotten shipwreck if nothing was done at this stage. As Edward Green says in his 2002 article in Cathedral Communications, this ‘lovely 14th century facade, which had survived the Reformation, the Civil War and centuries of Yorkshire weather [had been] reduced to a heart-breaking pile of rubble by mindless vandals.’

Plans were put forward to move it out of harm’s way, such as reconstructing this part of the old chapel in Wakefield Cathedral, but nothing got off the ground. In the end, all that anyone managed to do was the bare minimum – move it out of harm’s way. The stones were collected, many from a shallow watery grave, and put into storage by the Council.


Is there any evidence still of that romantic folly? I got Ellie the Boo out of the car (that’s the dog, in case you’re not reading these posts in order) and went out searching for clues. The small man-made lake whose banks the boathouse must have stood on is down a short path from the Hall. Ellie sniffed every post as we went, but I think she was checking for evidence of dog pee, rather than that of a 14th century church.

As we began to circumnavigate the lake, I took out my phone to check the images I’d taken off Google that showed the boathouse in situ, to see if I could work out where the boathouse might most likely have been. One corner of the lake seemed the most promising, at the far side, so I negotiated the duckshit on the path and headed over.

As soon as I got there, I could see large stones that looked to be the right sort of colour and style. There were a few in the water and others on the water’s edge. Not many, but enough to think I’d found the right place and enough to also wonder who they employed to clear the site – a team of professional historians/archaeologists or a bunch of apathetic delinquents running down a few hours of their community service?

Surely a few of the stones left here were part of the boathouse. If they weren’t, they should at least have been taken to make the area tidy. There was even an iron gate left on the water’s edge. Was this bent piece of railing once part of the boathouse? Frustratingly, you can’t see a gate on the pictures I’ve found, but that doesn’t mean there wasn’t one. There were openings in the building that could have had a gate.

Ellie looked at me at this point with a face that said ‘why are we hanging about in the mud here – I thought we were going for a walk?’ I’m not quite finished playing Poirot, though, and explore the area a bit more. I soon find something strangely thrilling (when I say thrilling, I cringe a little because if you’d asked the 21-year-old me if my find was thrilling, I would have said no, this is definitely boring old person crap). A few metres from the water’s edge, there are some stone steps amongst the trees. These must surely have been the steps that led down to the boathouse. Why else
would they be here? This was definitely the place (‘Whoopee-friggin’-do’ says 21-year-old self).

Ellie got her walk at this point, me content with my finds. As I went, leaning more and more heavily on my stick, I wondered if there was any way a member of the public can get to see the rescued stones in storage. Further investigation would be required.


POSTSCRIPT

Some of you may be hoping that I couldn’t be arsed to do any further investigation and that this is the end of the story of Chantry Chapel’s old frontage. It’s hard cheese for you, my friend, as there’s more.

Firstly, I later found one source describing the Kettlethorpe Hall estate at a time when the boathouse still stood. It describes the boathouse’s position as being at the south west end of the lake. A quick examination of Google Maps, confirms that my sherlocking was carried out very much in the south-west corner of the lake.

I then found a story in the local news from 2014 about how the stones were coming out of storage and were going to be put on display in the Secret Garden in Thornes Park. Thoughts of ‘that’s good news’ were mixed with other thoughts of ‘where the hell’s the Secret Garden in Thornes Park? Is it the garden that’s just beyond the little aviary at the corner of the lake where the geese hang out?’

I discovered that it is not. That’s the Rose Garden. I’ve fond memories of the Rose Garden, as it’s where my son learnt to ride a bike, but it’s clearly not secret, as it’s so easy to find. The Secret Garden, apparently, is a little way beyond that, in an area I have never ventured in all my years of living in Wakefield and visiting the park. I dare say many Wakefieldians know nothing of it either. Maybe the authorities thought this would be somewhere safe from the vandals, as you have to search it out. Kev and Sandra surely aren’t going to be bothered to find it. Let’s hope not. The project to move the stones was set to cost £20,000.

This three-year-old article said that the relocation work would take around two weeks so, as the Council and a lot of money seemed to be involved, I’m fully expecting it still won’t have got done. Of course, I will be tracking down this secret garden and letting you know if I’m wrong. After all, if you’ve read this far, I’m guessing you have some interest.


2 April 2018

4. OUTWOOD RACES

Where down is up and up is down…

It was a freezing cold winter’s day but the dog needed a walk and I needed to sate my recent appetite for historical sleuthing, so I persuaded the wife there would be a good walk to be had around the Wakefield 41 Industrial Estate. This was the site, see, of Wakefield’s very own racecourse in the 18th century. I’d also found on Google Maps a scrap of green land in the middle of the estate so Ellie (the dog) should at least be happy, even if the wife wasn’t.
 
I set the sat nav for Grandstand Road. This long straight barren route through Wakefield 41 is now  the only evidence that a racecourse stood in this area of Outwood. Part road, part dirt track, we parked somewhere along the middle of its length. I had been hoping to find some evidence of exactly where the grandstand had stood, but I’d come up blank so far. It’s probably under Morrison’s distribution centre or such like. So in the middle of Grandstand Road would be where we began our short walk.

Racing began in Wakefield, it seems, even before the course was opened in Outwood. The first racing we know of was in 1678 south of the town in the low lying area of the Ings, but after a few years local landowners shouted, ‘Get orf my land!’ so another location was sought. Elevated ground at Outwood was chosen. The particular area of Outwood was called the Lawns, or Laundes, which actually means a clearing in the wood.

Best guess for when racing began at Outwood is between 1745 and 1750. The place really took off, but less than 50 years later the Killjoys made their presence known again. George III was on the throne when the Wakefield Enclosure Act came into being in 1793 and ‘No Trespassing’ signs went up all over the countryside. Presumably, the local landlord wasn’t a fan of racing – or had at least lost a packet at the bookies – because that was one of the things that got knocked on the head as a result. 


We can be confident that the Outwood Races were a big deal because the grandstand was, by all accounts, something to be seen. It was designed sometime in the 1740s by noted Wakefield architect John Carr. He designed several grandstands in his time, including one for York racecourse. In fact, the old grandstand of York – since replaced – was based on his Wakefield design, so he must have been pretty pleased with it.

 
The substantial red brick building was decked out with a plush interior and had three terraces, which were, for a time, frequented by a multitude of Yorkshire’s fashionable and rakish folk. As I walked down the dirt track of Grandstand Road, I tried to imagine the loud cheering and pleading that went on here over 200 years ago, as men in top hats and women in bonnets waved their betting slips, urging their horse down the long home straight. I found this was a little hard to do with the sight of fork lift trucks whizzing and beeping around the forecourts of ugly grey warehouses, but it was worth a go.

The scrap of greenery I was looking for so Ellie the Boo could have a run around eluded me, but we found a pathway off Grandstand Road behind the warehouses that looked like it would do for the rest of our walk. The Boo was happy sniffing dog piss in the long grass and I was still lost in my reverie of horse races past.

I finally snapped out of it and tried to get the wife interested in why we were here by talking about the grandstand and what happened to it when its primary use was lost. It had several new purposes, such as being the venue for the Wakefield Florists’ Society’s first three shows from 1807-9, but for many years it was just a farm building, as the surrounding land became part of a noted fruit farm, before rhubarb became king in the area. 

As a farm building, it must have had something of the Grand Designs about it, if it was converted to a dwelling for people living on the farm, as it seems. Like all big old houses, however, maintenance was no doubt a nightmare and during a bad storm in the 1910s part of the roof blew off. Soon after, this grand old building was, sadly, completely knackered and the decision was made to demolish it. It
Dave will be happy to answer any logistics queries you may have
didn’t go without a fight, though. The walls were found to be so sturdy that pulling it down in the usual way was too difficult and the old grandstand had to be blown up, but not before its many fine oak beams and timbers were spirited away. I hope they were salvaged to be used in other buildings in Wakefield. Imagine if a house in Wakefield has an original beam from the racecourse in Outwood.
 

This last thought seemed to pique the interest of the wife somewhat. Some people get excited by watching 22 men kick a bag of wind around a field (me) and she gets excited by the thought of oak beams and associated house design. There was plenty for her to look at too as we walked behind the varied houses of Outwood, many large with enormous gardens. Shame they’ve got a view of huge corrugated sheds and stacks of wooden pallets, as well as having the train mainline from Leeds to London within easy earshot, but the place seemed quiet enough when a train wasn’t whoosing past, rattling the windows. 

Light snow was starting to fall and it was getting colder, if possible. Never mind, we were back on the roads now and surely into the final furlong. That was, of course, a deliberate reference to the racecourse, of which I have two more things to add. After the Outwood course closed, the Earl of Strathmore tried to revive racing in the town by starting the Wakefield Grand National in 1847. The course started at Sandal Castle, had 53 fences and was four miles long. Where the finishing line was I’ve no idea, but it was clearly a roaring success as it only ran until 1849.


The other matter to mention, albeit briefly, is that the area of the racecourse near the grandstand was supposed to be haunted. The Green Lady of Lawns was a well-known story in the area and she was supposed to mooch about near the grandstand after dark. This, of course, was a load of bollocks because all ghost stories are, but there were surely plenty of people who believed in it, as there always is with this kind of thing. 

I was on a Jack the Ripper walk once in London and the guide tried to convince me that there was such a thing as poltergeists. He made out that he was as cynical as one could be about this kind of thing until he saw a load of objects flying around a room on their own. I had two thoughts about this. One, you’re a man who wanders the streets of Whitechapel after dark escorting tourists around sites where grisly murders took place. You’re exactly the type of person who’s going to believe in ghosts and the like. Two, what a waste of time poltergeists are. What’s the point of making stuff spin around a room? To scare people? Is that all they want to do with their time? Ghosts and all your ilk – stop wasting our time! 

We now needed to find the shortest route back to the car. I was leaning heavily on my stick and my legs were their customary consistency of unset jelly after this short kind of walk. I consulted Google Maps on my phone while my wife breathed down my neck. The roundabout we were on was displaying an impressive lack of signs giving names for any of the four roads that met here. The snow was coming down heavily by this point and, as I wrestled with gloves and trying to keep my phone dry while attempting against the odds to find our bearings, the Fates decided that now would be a good time to start an argument. 

“It’s got to be down there,” said she, pointing down one of the roads. 

“I think you’re right, but just give me a minute to check.” I wanted to be absolutely sure we were heading the right way. This is the problem with having walking difficulties. You can’t afford to go wrong. “Is that a road sign over there?”

“I’m telling you it’s down there.”

I repeat my line that I agree but need to be certain.

Grandstand Road in soft focus... due to shaking from the cold

Then the real fun starts. I have the map on my screen and am scrolling with my finger when she says, “You need to go up, go up.” So I scroll up with my finger, which means the map heads south. “No! Go up, up! Why do you never listen to me? You’re doing the exact opposite of what I said.” 

To go ‘up’ i.e head north on the map, you need to move your finger down on the screen. I try to explain to her that this is what I thought she meant, but she’s having none of it. This is where many of our arguments start. She has a very clear notion of what she means in her head, but can’t see that what she says can be interpreted in more than one way. But of course, she’s not able to defend herself here. She’s probably right that I’m just an idiot who doesn’t listen.

I insisted on crossing the road and seeing if that was indeed a sign saying what that road was called. It was and I was able to work out that yes, it was down there like she’d said all along, which made her despair of me even more.

Soon the car was in sight and we would be heading home. I wonder how the crowds at Outwood Races came and went. The train station is only up the road, but unfortunately that mode of transport was some way off being invented at the time the races were being run. I guess there must have been a lot of horses with carriages. There’s only one thing you can be sure of: when couples of the 18th century left the races after their day out, they argued about the quickest way back to where the carriage was supposed to pick them up.

POSTSCRIPT

Since my visit to Grandstand Road, a friend has brought the website old-maps.co.uk to my attention. It’s a bit cumbersome to use – at least if you don’t want to part with any money – but I was able to establish exactly where the grandstand had been and confirm when it was demolished. The oldest map for the Carr Gate area on the site is from the early 19th century when the grandstand was very much still there, despite the racecourse being no more, then the grandstand is gone on the maps from the late 1920s.

I called Integrated Logistics about sponsorship options for the blog. They told me to go away.


Comparing the old maps with modern maps is not straightforward, but my best guess for where the grandstand was positioned is south of Grandstand Road and just north of Telford Way, just east of where the John Menzies warehouse is today. My idle speculation that it was under Morrison’s distribution centre was actually not that far wrong, although, interestingly, there’s a good chance that nothing has been built on top of where it used to be. It looks to be just a grassy area between industrial buildings. So, I will have to go back now. Who knows, there might be some kind of evidence of its former existence, such as some foundations. I’ll let you know if I ever find anything.

14. DESCENDING THE GRAVITY RAILROAD

A Historical Cycling Tour of Wakefield In Which the Author: - discovers that the city can lay claim to the world’s first ever public railway...